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Vacuum Modulator question for my C6

Discussion in '1965-1970 Shelby Mustang GT350 & GT500' started by Oregon Shelby, Jul 5, 2010.

  1. Oregon Shelby

    Oregon Shelby Well-Known Member

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    I had my 428 engine completely rebuild and several months later I finally got my engine back which is the good news. The frustrating news is that I can't recall how the vacuum modulator lines hook up. I tried searching google and the large Ford factory manual and I didn't see or read how this hooks up. I know it ultimately hooks up to my tree on the intake manifold, but would really like to see some pictures if at all possible.

    I have the vacuum modulator line that has two rubber hoses connect to each end. I just can recall if that piece connects to the C6? If memory serves me correct I thought it snapped to the clip of the bell housing. Again, I don't want to force this on and would really be valuable if there was a picture that I can look at or some type of in depth explanation.

    Lastly from the hose that comes out of the actual modulator on the C6 that ultimately runs to the the vacuum modulator line , is this a hard line or soft rubber line that runs parallel to the frame itself that I am missing? I honestly don't recall taking off this tube/line and am thinking that its staring right at me while I am crawling underneath the car?

    Other than that my engine is ready to fire!

    Look forward reading some answers and would really appreciate any feedback or web sites that could help assist me.

    brian-
     
  2. TLEA

    TLEA Well-Known Member

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    Brian, the soft rubber line between the modulator and the metal line has a molded 90 degree bend it it. It looks like a letter L. There is a clip at the back where the tailshaft bolts on theat the metal line snaps into and another at the top of the bellhousing under one of the housing to block bolts. They are a bugger to find if they are missing
     
  3. Oregon Shelby

    Oregon Shelby Well-Known Member

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    Yes perfect Tim. Was pretty easy once I viewed one in person. I went and looked at a Mach 1 with a C6. Modulator is hooked up to my intake manifold without problems.

    Several questions regarding my rebuilt engine
    Had my engine completely rebuilt. How many miles to I run the engine before I swap out the break in motor oil (with added zink) to rugular motor oil?

    Also what weight/brand of motor oil should I be using after the break in period regarding a completely rebuilt 428?
     
  4. rsimkins

    rsimkins Well-Known Member

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    Brian,

    If you have a flat tappet cam (non-roller) you will always need some zink (ZDDP or Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphates) in your motor oil. Without it, you risk wiping out the cam.

    There are a few specialty oils that still have ZDDP in them, I'd choose one of them. Joe Gibbs has a good brand (http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/syntheticracingoil/index.html) and Shell Rotella may still have ZDDP in it, you'll have to check it out for sure. You can also buy the additive. I'm sure some of the other posters will share their recommendations with you.
     

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