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Post Restoration Guide

Discussion in '1965-1970 Shelby Mustang GT350 & GT500' started by mherman2, Nov 17, 2007.

  1. mherman2

    mherman2 Well-Known Member

    Likes Received:
    Dec 9, 2005
    I got this from Mike Mulcahy who did the restoration on my 67 GT500. I thought it may be helpful to some folks. I am sure there are differences in opinion, so any input is fine:

    Transport Issues:

    *Floats in Holley carburetors can get hung up during transport from bouncing around during transport. If they do get hung up and the floats are “stuck” the car will not idles and you’ll smell the fuel being “dumped” out of the vent tubes into the main venturis of the carburetors. To remedy this issue:

    -remove the 4 needles and seat assemblies & re-install
    -crank over engine with primary wire disconnected from the coil (+ side) and check float levels in all 4 bowls through the site holes in the side of each float bowl
    -install primary wire and start car
    -re-check float levels thru sight holes

    *Transport Trailers are not air-tight or water-tight. Therefore dirt and moisture can and will get into the transport trailer and blow around inside the container. As a result the entire exterior of the car will get dusty. I recommend that when the car arrives to your destination that you immediately take it to a detail shop with a lift and detail the exterior (even the underside of the car’s body, and suspension). You might get lucky and get a brand new trailer and have no dirt issues at all. Just a word to the wise…

    *Transport will also shake any interior dust from the media and sand blasting that was perfoemed prior to paint work. Although much of this dust was blown out or “glued” down during the painting process….some will still exist. Again, a good detail shop will be able to clean this up and remedy the issue.

    Cold Starting Instructions:

    -Pump Accelerator Pedal One-time to the floor to set Choke Butterfly and Fast Idle Cam Settings.
    -Crank engine with ignition key until it fires (do not touch accelerator pedal even if the car tries to start and then dies).
    -Once engine fires allow a minute to warm up and then depress (blip) the accelerator pedal slightly to allow fast idle to reduce a notch on the fast idle cam.
    -Continue to allow engine to warm up and choke pull off spring to do it’s job (reduce idle and close choke butterfly). Once the engine is warmed up and in the operating range on the temperature gauge in the dash you can rev it or drive it. DO NOT rev or drive the car until it has reached a 180 degree operating temperature (mid-way in the center of the gauge between C-H (Cold-Hot).
    -Engine Oil Pressure will be 40-60 cold and 25-40 Warmed up
    -Amp Gauge will run in the center until accessories are in use….then charge positive.

    Hot Starting Instructions:

    -DO NOT PUMP Accelerator Pedal!!!
    -Simply crank engine until it starts.
    -If you did hit the accelerator pedal and the Engine is “Flooded” hold accelerator pedal to the floor with the throttle wide open (foot on the floor with foot depressed to the carpet) and crank engine until it starts. Immediately take foot off accelerator pedal upon engine firing or you will over-rev the engine.

    Pre-Trip Check List:

    -check engine oil level
    -check radiator coolant level (engine must be stone cold before ever removing the radiator cap!!!)
    -check the power steering fluid level
    -check the transmission fluid level
    -check the brake fluid level
    -check air pressure in tires and inflate to 29-32 lbs. pressure (less when it’s hot out, more when cool)
    -Torque the lug nuts to 90 ft. lbs.

    Approved Fluids:

    -93 Octane BP Ultimate Fuel (or better)
    -Valvoline VR1 20W50 Engine Oil
    -Motorcraft FL1 Oil Filter
    -DOT 4 Brake Fluid
    -Type FA Transmission Fluid
    -Type FA Power Steering Fluid
    -Lucas Red-n-Tacky Wheel Bearing and Suspension Grease
    -75W90 Lucas Synthetic Rear End Gear Oil
    -50/50 mix of ShellZone or Name Brand Quality Engine Coolant (do not but pre-mixed) with clean de-ionized water

    Do’s and Don’ts:


    *Use only mild soap and water to clean the exterior, engine compartment, engine, underside, wheels, etc
    *Wipe down exterior paint with a quality detailer like Meguiar’s (not in the hot sun….shade only)
    *Windex and balled up newspaper works best on interior and exterior glass
    *Use only approved Fluids


    *Use any harsh chemicals like Brake Cleaner, Engine Gunk, Wheel Cleaner with ACID, etc. or damage to the paint and finish(s) will result!!!
    *Use a pressure washer to clean any surface of the car or it’s components
    McCollum Ford Ranch and rshelby like this.

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