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Sealing Aluminum COBRA Oil Pans

Discussion in '1965-1970 Shelby Mustang GT350 & GT500' started by ELJ1st500, Sep 16, 2007.

  1. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    Hello Everyone,

    I have a question for you. Aluminum COBRA oil pans will eventually start to leak oil due to the porosity of the aluminum. I am looking for something that will adhere to the inside of the oil pan permanently and stop this problem. I am sure that some of you have already addressed this problem. What do you recommend using to seal the inside of the oil pan in order to prevent this oil leakage/seepage?

    Please let me know what you think.


    Thanks for your assistance,
    Eric
     
  2. zrayr

    zrayr Well-Known Member

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    do you already have this problem, or want to guard against it ever happening? My 41 year old Cobra oil pan hasn't leaking thru the pores yet. When can I expect this happen? Next year, or will it actually take a millennium to happen?

    Z. Ray
     
  3. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    Ray,

    I have an aftermarket aluminum oil pan that fits the FE big block engines. This pan started weeping oil after about 5 years of use. I can not speak for the original small block pans, but I would expect that some of them may have had this same problem......

    Thanks,
    Eric
     
  4. rsimkins

    rsimkins Well-Known Member

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    No leaks on the small block pan on our '66 Hertz car. I believe that the FE pans are all aftermarket. I've never seen a factory part number for one.
     
  5. Aggressor

    Aggressor Member

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    Any cast aluminum part can weep oil through the pores in the material. It may be a problem with the casting process from that particular manuacturer. I have had sucess sealing a weepy cast aluminum Ford FE remote oil filter mount by coating the inner surfaces with Glyptol. Prior to sealing, the mount was oven baked to drive out any oil soaked in the pores and then cleaned in solvent to remove what remained. The surfaces were then scuffed with 280 grit sandpaper to provide surface "tooth" for the glyptol and cleaned again.
    I ordered Glyptol from Eastwood Co.
    -Geary
     
  6. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    Geary,

    Thanks for your response. I will check into the Glyptol product.

    Eric
     
  7. tesgt350

    tesgt350 Well-Known Member

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    You can talk to Powder Coating Companies to see how well it will work to Power Coat just the INSIDE of the Oil Pan.
    David.
     
  8. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    David,

    Thanks for your response. There is a company that does powder coating just a couple of miles from where I live. I will have to call them and ask about your suggestion.

    Thanks,
    Eric
     
  9. Aggressor

    Aggressor Member

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    Eric,
    I own a powdercoating shop. It may be a good alternative but probably will cost more. Thats why I suggested the Glytol method for ease and cost. If you consider powdercoat, I would ask for an Epoxy Hybrid powder for it's chemical resistance and durablity. While a polyester powder may do a fine job the cost difference should be nominal for the hybrid.

    -Geary
     
  10. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    Geary,

    Thanks for the additional information. I called the local shop that does powder coating. The guy was extremely hesitant about coating the inside of an oil pan......

    I will contact another shop or two and see what they have to say.

    Thanks,
    Eric
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2007
  11. patty.dilabio

    patty.dilabio Well-Known Member

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    Hi Eric and all on this thread.As with any coating before it is applied it is the proper preparation that will make the difference.No matter what choice you make,the metal must be completely clean and oil free prior to any surface prep.or it will eventually fail to adhere.A strong detergent bath is one of the best ways to de grease,but it may be strong enough to streak the outside of the pan.I would be tempted to follow what Ford does and that is epoxy coat the inside.Although Gyptol is good and has been around a long time,it is just a form of enamel.Epoxy is much better and can be baked for maximum durability.Maybe the first step is to zyglo to look for and cracks,although they are sand cast,they should not have open pores.Have you considered a steel pan?They are lighter and large capacity pans are available from several different people.Shelby used Avaid pans on 65 R models.Just a thought.:)
     
  12. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    Hello Patty,

    Thanks for your response. I am going to investigate the powder coating idea a little further. I agree with you that proper surface preparation is the key. I currently have a Canton road race oil pan on the car - from the days of driving the car at Colorado SAAC open track events. I no longer do these events with the car. I have just always liked the "look" of the cast aluminum COBRA oil pans. I realize that it is not "concours correct" for my car, but that is what I want to put on it at the present time....... and this time I do not want it to weep oil.

    Thanks,
    Eric
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2007
  13. rsimkins

    rsimkins Well-Known Member

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    Eric,

    It is your car and that being the case, you get to do whatever you want with it. Just make the car the way you want it and enjoy it. Let those who want a concours restoration do their thing and you do yours. That's what makes this such a great hobby (OK, so its more than a hobby, you know what I'm talking about).
     
  14. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    Hello Roy,

    Thanks for the encouraging words and understanding. I appreciate your enthusiasm for the hobby/obsession..... that so many of us have with these cars.

    Thanks,
    Eric
     
  15. Aggressor

    Aggressor Member

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    Eric - Patty is correct about proper prep of your oil pan. The only exception being that no amount of suface cleaning will drive oil out of the pores. It will require pre-baking and degreasing for powdercoat which is why some powder shops will shy away from a job like this. We have a custom shop so we have seen it all. The good, bad, and totally greasy. We've even done Candy Purple Engine Blocks for a Gentleman in Florida. (1966 383 Chysler Engine Image Included)

    Thorough surface cleaning with akali detergents such as "Dawn" and/or solvent cleaning is generally all that is necessary for the Glyptol Treatment. -Geary
     

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  16. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    Geary,

    Thanks again for the additional information. I believe that I have found a shop down in Denver that will take their time and do the required surface preparation on my oil pan. I will probably do some pre-cleaning/washing of the pan before I take it to them.

    Best regards,
    Eric
     
  17. KensKR

    KensKR Well-Known Member

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    Eric, my personal opinion is to replace the oil pan. If for some reason the paint or powder coating were to come off and get over your oil pickup. It would be a shame to damage a 427 when a new pan at Branda is $350.00
    Is it possible to put a clear sealer on the outside of the pan.
    Kenny
     
  18. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    Kenny,

    Thanks for your response. I have thought about buying a new COBRA pan. Then having it sealed and getting a bung welded on to it for the oil temp probe. Ultimately, that may be the best way to go. I agree with you that it would be a terrible thing to damage my 427 due to a clogged oil pump pick-up. I am not sure about clear coating the outside of the pan. That may be a possibility also. The Canton road race pan on the car works just fine and may end up staying on the car for a while longer.......

    Thanks,
    Eric
     
  19. coupe3w

    coupe3w New Member

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    Do they have clear powder coat? If so do the outside maybe.
     
  20. ELJ1st500

    ELJ1st500 Well-Known Member

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    Coupe,

    Thanks for your response. I have been told there is a "clear" powder coating. I was also told that it results in a shiney finish. I do not want a shiney oil pan. It needs to keep that cast aluminum appearance.

    Thanks,
    Eric
     

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