65 GT350 suspension question

Guys-
Here is what may sound like a stupid question (please forgive): Do 65 GT 350's have a rear axle pinion snubber, as on 66's ? I was told today that they should not have one, and I have seen them both with and without. I am referring to the bracket and snubber attached to the third member bolts on the rear end.

Also, has anybody had any experience with Koni shocks being too short for the rear suspension? The shocks top out before the suspension does, and long before the limit cables do. This would seem to upset the chassis in a hard turn. I know the limiting cables were a bad idea from the beginning. As silly as it sounds, I am actually trying to prep #144 to drive - and as such am trying to make the suspension "work" while still looking stock.

I was contemplating making some billet spacers on the lathe for the top of the rear shocks (hidden) to give them an extra 1/2" of range while extending. This would let the suspension go full travel in both directions. In conjunction with this, I contemplated lengthening the limit cables as to still look stock but essentially stay out of the game, i.e., never picking up a wheel.

Any ideas or tips? Again, I just want to dial the suspension in as best as possible and still have it look stock. The rear suspension is the last hurdle , but I think I am getting close!

Thanks in advance,
Colin

Colin-FWIW, 5S071 does have a bracket and snubber. All '65 and '66 HiPo Mustangs came w/them on the 9" rears.
Regards, Stan
----- Original Message -----
From: Colin Comer
To: shelbymustang@carmemories.com
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 9:02 PM
Subject: 65 GT350 suspension question


Guys-
Here is what may sound like a stupid question (please forgive): Do 65 GT 350's have a rear axle pinion snubber, as on 66's ? I was told today that they should not have one, and I have seen them both with and without. I am referring to the bracket and snubber attached to the third member bolts on the rear end.

Also, has anybody had any experience with Koni shocks being too short for the rear suspension? The shocks top out before the suspension does, and long before the limit cables do. This would seem to upset the chassis in a hard turn. I know the limiting cables were a bad idea from the beginning. As silly as it sounds, I am actually trying to prep #144 to drive - and as such am trying to make the suspension "work" while still looking stock.

I was contemplating making some billet spacers on the lathe for the top of the rear shocks (hidden) to give them an extra 1/2" of range while extending. This would let the suspension go full travel in both directions. In conjunction with this, I contemplated lengthening the limit cables as to still look stock but essentially stay out of the game, i.e., never picking up a wheel.

Any ideas or tips? Again, I just want to dial the suspension in as best as possible and still have it look stock. The rear suspension is the last hurdle , but I think I am getting close!

Thanks in advance,
Colin

Colin,
Click on the link provided below to take you to my website that shows detail pictures of a 65 350 (including the snubber)
I hope this helps.
David Randal
http://www.comfortcarconnection.com/.../65_GT_350.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Colin Comer
To: shelbymustang@carmemories.com
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 8:02 PM
Subject: 65 GT350 suspension question


Guys-
Here is what may sound like a stupid question (please forgive): Do 65 GT 350's have a rear axle pinion snubber, as on 66's ? I was told today that they should not have one, and I have seen them both with and without. I am referring to the bracket and snubber attached to the third member bolts on the rear end.

Also, has anybody had any experience with Koni shocks being too short for the rear suspension? The shocks top out before the suspension does, and long before the limit cables do. This would seem to upset the chassis in a hard turn. I know the limiting cables were a bad idea from the beginning. As silly as it sounds, I am actually trying to prep #144 to drive - and as such am trying to make the suspension "work" while still looking stock.

I was contemplating making some billet spacers on the lathe for the top of the rear shocks (hidden) to give them an extra 1/2" of range while extending. This would let the suspension go full travel in both directions. In conjunction with this, I contemplated lengthening the limit cables as to still look stock but essentially stay out of the game, i.e., never picking up a wheel.

Any ideas or tips? Again, I just want to dial the suspension in as best as possible and still have it look stock. The rear suspension is the last hurdle , but I think I am getting close!

Thanks in advance,
Colin