66 gt350 axle limiting cables.

[2dragpac500converts]

Hello, I need the experts. I am finishing up a 66gt350h and need to install the axle limiting cables. Does anyone have a pic of what they sould look like installed? I dont see this in the assembly manuals.

[Bob Gaines]

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

Hello, I need the experts. I am finishing up a 66gt350h and need to install the axle limiting cables. Does anyone have a pic of what they sould look like installed? I dont see this in the assembly manuals.

Support the unibody and let the rear end hang. Snug the limiting cables so that they will be taut at a little less then full hang (jounce?) before crimping cable fitting. Pictures of car on lift with rear hanging. I assume your GT350 H has overides since the limiting cables were not used on the cars with under ride traction bars. I hope this helps. Bob

[steveshelbymustang]

I am not sure your car came with limiting cables. Very few 66 cars received them. Mostly override t-bar cars were more likely to get them. One way to tell if your car had them the axle bumper would be removed and a eyelet put in place to loop the cable like the 65 cars. If the bumper has not been cut off your car it didn't likely receive the cables. Here are a couple of photos if you can use them. May be a topic for a new thread.




First 2 images are 66
last two are 65

[rsimkins]

Originally Posted by Bob Gaines

I assume your GT350 H has overrides since the limiting cables were not used on the cars with under ride traction bars.

Our G.T.350H is # 817 and it has overrides and had axle limiting cables. The eye-bolts are still in place.

[Texas Swede]

6S923 has under rides and probably had limiting cables
as the eye-bolts are still there. Car never restored.
Texas Swede

[Texas Swede]

Here are a couple of pictures of 6S923 Axle Limiting Cable
eye-bolt. The car is being restored at present and the
question is if the cables shall be installed or not.
Looks like they were there originally even with under-ride
Traction Masters.
Texas Swede

[2dragpac500converts]

Thanks for the great photos! YOU guys are a lot of help.This car has overrides. I will post pics of installed this weekend and you can let me know what you think .

[2dragpac500converts]

They are installed. I gave a couple of extra shots of underside let me know if there is anything obvious that is wrong

[Snakepit]

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

They are installed. I gave a couple of extra shots of underside let me know if there is anything obvious that is wrong

First these are meant in a friendly way and in the spirit of sharing. Some are as much questions/thoughts as right or wrong comments

Secondly it very easy to see you have spent allot of time working on this project... nice work, it shows.

And lastly I have to commend you on offering up your work and efforts to input.



1- What is the finish on the welded in rear end bumpers? Hard to tell from the angle.

2- I would have added the 1/2" wide chalking on the bottom edge of the rear trunk drop to quarter panel joint (inside surface)

3- Not sure what number car this is but , if it was one of mine, I would ahve used stripes rather than spray identifiers on the rear springs.

4- Was the "921" something you found on your car? Same goes for the yellow dots on the bottom of the rear shock/spring plates.

5- Is the wheel well sound deadener over the body color??

6- Did you do the pinch weld black out? Can't make out any over spray on the bottom of the car.

7- Would lighten up the finish on the rear spring clamps. Springs would have been dark heat treated in look and the clamps a lighter natural bare steel

8- H pipe looks like its clamped to the adapters and originally there would be no clamps at the rear of the mufflers

9- Does the gas tank have a drain?



Again, nice work. Take or leave what every you want from my comments and questions

[2dragpac500converts]

Tried to duplicate silver finish of brackets and the sprayed black around welded portions. I did not put seam sealer along trunk drop to try to show spot welds. That is one of my problems ,that i dont like to cover up orig. panels with seam sealer and sound deadener but i am getting better with every car and my counselor says i am making progress. [ha ha]. I sprayed deadener after primer in wheel wheels, then paint and then sprayed more deadener to blackout area. I have found yellow dots on the bottom of orig. cars torn down not 66's ,but thought it was maybe an identifier that the u bolts were checked or torqued. pinch weld is blacked out. H pipe is clamped . Should they not be ? Should they be welded? I know it is not n.o.s exhaust but if i can make it closer to orig.by welding let me know.
I really appreciate all of your expertise and the research you have done on these cars. I want to get this car close as possible {within reason} before i bring it out this summer.
thanks again chris
www.chrisbrownclassics.com

[s2ms]

Originally Posted by Snakepit

3- Not sure what number car this is but , if it was one of mine, I would ahve used stripes rather than spray identifiers on the rear springs.

Jeff, do you have an idea of which cars got stripes and which got daubs? I ask because I still have the original rear springs for 1757. One spring has stripes, the other has daubs.

[Snakepit]

Originally Posted by s2ms

Jeff, do you have an idea of which cars got stripes and which got daubs? I ask because I still have the original rear springs for 1757. One spring has stripes, the other has daubs.

Believe it was a supplier (differ ones) thing.

No don't have enough data from San Jose to draw a line. Just observations that I see more dotes on Dearborn and more stripes on San Jose cars in 66. In 65 more dotes at San Jose

[Snakepit]

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

Tried to duplicate silver finish of brackets and the sprayed black around welded portions. I did not put seam sealer along trunk drop to try to show spot welds. That is one of my problems ,that i dont like to cover up orig. panels with seam sealer and sound deadener but i am getting better with every car and my counselor says i am making progress. [ha ha].

Must have had a real problem (most owners do) spraying all the ugly sealer around the firewall connections and holes


Its only a single little line

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

I sprayed deadener after primer in wheel wheels, then paint and then sprayed more deadener to blackout area.

Originally the pinch weld black out guy (if done on this car as allot of cars were left with body color rear wheelwells) would have done this with semi-gloss black. Often its overspray (again if done) also streached to the rear frame rail behind the wheel well and to the gas tank drop at the front corners. The black spot on the rear frame rail can also be produced from the guy doing the pinch weld on the rear section behind the wheel since its seen on cars where the rear wheel well was not blacked out. (seen on approx 98% of San Jose cars that I've seen)


While we are on paint.... are any of your rear valance mounting screws (along the top edge) painted body color???

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

I have found yellow dots on the bottom of orig. cars torn down not 66's ,but thought it was maybe an identifier that the u bolts were checked or torqued. pinch weld is blacked out. H pipe is clamped . Should they not be ?
Should they be welded? I know it is not n.o.s exhaust but if i can make it closer to orig.by welding let me know.

Never seen the yellow dotes at San Jose in 66 - the reason I asked

Didn't see allot of black overspray on the frame rails and floor - must be the angle


These might help

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

I really appreciate all of your expertise and the research you have done on these cars. I want to get this car close as possible {within reason} before i bring it out this summer.
thanks again chris

Your welcome...... its always about choices

[Bob Gaines]

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

They are installed. I gave a couple of extra shots of underside let me know if there is anything obvious that is wrong

I would like to reinforce the points Jeff made plus emphasize that your H pipe should look like the picture Jeff provided and the generic type clamps were used in the middle of the H pipe and where it connects to the intermediate pipes . The only Ford style saddle clamps should be at the intermediate pipe hangers and connection to the tips only. I couldn't see the sealer on the backside of the rocker on the driver side if it was there. Good Job. Bob

[2dragpac500converts]

Here is pic of side view. I did seam seal pinchweld but doesnt show that well because of overspray. I dont know what to do about exhaust h-pipe .I almost think i should start over and have a exhaust shop make something closer. Do you guys know of anyone besides branada that has a correct one?

[Bob Gaines]

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

Here is pic of side view. I did seam seal pinchweld but doesnt show that well because of overspray. I dont know what to do about exhaust h-pipe .I almost think i should start over and have a exhaust shop make something closer. Do you guys know of anyone besides branada that has a correct one?

I think there is no better alternative but to start over in regards to the H pipe. It is not a big job. Jeff provided a excellent picture to go by . It is a relative simple design. If after showing that picture to a muffler shop and they felt they might have a problem duplicating such a simple design you would have no business letting them close to your car. Now saying that of course whatever shop you use would need to fit the H pipe to the individual car for best fit. It would be too much to expect that a H pipe could be made up from a picture and have it to fit perfectly with out the car it was going on. I have a shop that makes them up for me but I always provide the car for the best fit. Back in the day they were made in a jig in mass and whether they fit or not (exhaust leak) they were installed .

[Snakepit]

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

Here is pic of side view. I did seam seal pinchweld but doesnt show that well because of overspray.

The sealer would have have normally been applied around the floor brace as shown in the picture at San Jose and because of the angle the paint was applied there is rarely (from my observations only) any paint in its general location (pinch weld formed a pretty good spray mask)

Originally Posted by 2dragpac500converts

I dont know what to do about exhaust h-pipe .I almost think i should start over and have a exhaust shop make something closer. Do you guys know of anyone besides branada that has a correct one?

Though Jim Cowles mad/had them.

You might consider just replacing the H pipe. Clamp it to the rest of the system you have (looks like you would need to replace the long sections as they are formed incorrectly) and remove the muffler clamps and weld the pipe at those locations. Not sure if any one is making good looking resisnators currently